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Sunday, January 4, 2015

second chance

For those of you not on Facebook or Instagram (are you hiding under a rock?), Ryan's mom, Jerri, has been visiting us in Munich for the past two weeks for Christmas and New Years. Germany really loves Christmas, but Munich in particular. Toward the end of November, almost every public plaza, square, or courtyard gets taken over by Christmas markets.  The various markets in each square have some slight differences, but all more or less sell gluhwein, food, and some various handmade goods and trinkets (Ryan bought some lambskin gloves from one).

After we completely tired ourselves of gluhwein and flammbrot at the Christmas markets, we enjoyed a lovely Christmas in Munich, despite an ER visit. CliffsNotes version: Jerri had an allergic reaction to an antibiotic, so we spent the first part of Christmas day at an emergency room. Thankfully Jerri made a swift recovery after a shot of Cortisone, an IV drip, and some sleep. Reasons we were glad that Jerri made a quick recovery: (1) we love her (2) it was Christmas! (2) who else can make such amazing turkey gravy? and (3) we were flying to Paris the next morning!

On our way to Paris, Jerri tried to come up with another way to thwart our trip (she forgot her passport back in the apartment, after we'd already caught the airport bus), but we could not be stopped. Ryan and Jerri got in a taxi with Speed Racer while I watched the luggage, casually ordered a bagel, and picked up our boarding passes. They made it back with time to spare, despite the snowy streets and day-after-Christmas crowd at the airport. We made the flight, and I hesitate to confess that none of our passports were ever checked. Better safe than sorry, right?

Passport in hand!

Cute (and free) little airplane beer.

Paris and I had met before, seven years earlier when I was a broke 22 year old on a post-graduation backpacking trip with friends, which was funded through student loans and my dad's Alaska Airline miles (thanks again, Father!). We had planned to stay for three nights but were forced into an extra day and a half due to train strikes. No wonder I didn't love it the first time around. Paris, I am giving you a second chance to impress me. Ready? Okay, good.

We arrived on Friday morning and checked in to our AirBnB. While the building was old and Parisian (read: small and dirty), we were in an amazing location. We stayed in the heart of Montmartre, conveniently located mere blocks from two metro stops, Sacre Coeur, and Moulin Rouge. Right outside of our apartment building was a Christmas market, and while I was so sick of gluhwein, I was intrigued at what treats a Parisian Christmas market might have. You can imagine my delight upon discovering a Raclette booth! Do you know anyone who loves ooey gooey cheese more than this girl? I think not.
Ryan accidentally ordered 12  churros at the Christmas market.

After eating my weight in cheese (Raclette on bread with salami, Raclette on potatoes, and then just simply a mixed platter of meats and cheeses), we took the metro to the Eiffel Tower. We walked the park and enjoyed the views. It was so crowded that I imagine it would have taken us approximately three hours to buy tickets and actually make it to the top of the Eiffel Tower, so we opted for drinks in a warm restaurant instead and waited for sunset. I promised Ryan and Jerri that the iconic landmark was more impressive and magical at night, and I don't think they were disappointed.


Adorable Parisian





On Saturday, we explored the Louvre, including acting like cattle to catch a glimpse of the Mona Lisa.


So crowded!




We also took a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, but again, didn't want to wait or pay to climb to the top. We had our fill of stairs in the Louvre.




After several hours and likely several miles of walking, we were all exhausted and headed back to the Montmartre neighborhood for dinner. We found a superb little restaurant that apparently has a location in NYC as well: Buvette Gastrotheque. We shared dishes such as nutty pesto bruschetta, brussel sprout salad, Shepherd's Pie, various cheeses, and coq au vin. If you have the opportunity, visit this yummy restaurant.

After dinner, we dropped in to a bar solely because it was named Dirty Dick. This was, of course, located in Moulin Rouge. The bartenders were on point with their mixed drinks, and thanks to Jerri's charm, provided us with free shots of rum. (Sidenote from Ryan: "Heaven is eating dinner at delicious, small Parisian diner with your Fiance and Mother.  Hell is then going to drinks after and have the bartender hit on your Mom.")


On Sunday, after recovering from my hangover with a tasty quiche, we walked up the many, many stairs from our apartment to Sacre-Coeur. I have never seen more people in one place in my life. The streets were so packed with tourists, and every time a single car would try and pass through, it seemed as if we would never move or get out of the crowd. We entered the Basilica, admired the beautiful architecture and art, and contemplated religion. Meanwhile, a horrible woman could be seen stealing money from the church. I was stunned and horrified, but like everyone else, did nothing to stop her. Does that make me just as guilty?


Sausage Party



After expending Jerri's tolerance of stairs, we found a cute little cafe to have a late lunch. I finally ordered some escargot for Jerri and Ryan to try. I impressed them with my de-snailing techniques and luckily, they did like the dish.

We met up with extended family for dinner at an awesome North African restaurant in the heart of the city, and then joined them for drinks at the Buddha Bar. Around 11:30, we left to meet up with Ryan's friend, Chris, to watch the second half of the Hawks game at The Great Canadian. Not only were we able to meet up with friends and family that were conveniently in Paris at the same time as us (completely unplanned), we had another small-world experience at the pub. After finding Chris at his table and saying hello, I heard my name. I looked up to see a former EY coworker at the table next to us! As it turns out, he and his wife have recently moved to the Netherlands on a two-year rotation with EY. Someone please calculate the odds of running into a friend at a bar half around the world and get back to me. Thanks.

On our final day in Paris, before heading to the airport to catch our afternoon flight, we did went anyone else would do. Eat more delicious French food. We capped off our trip with a spectacular creme brulee and said au revoir to the City of Lights. Here are a couple of final imagines from our trip: Ryan's hair inspiration on the Paris metro and yummy macaroons! Well done, Paris, well done.

What are they advertising for exactly?
Salted caramel gelato macaroon. Too good for words.

Until the next post!

xoxo,
L & R

P.S. We miss you already, Jerri!